What you should know about leather
Together with our partners, we work to improve our processes. This also applies to the tanning of the leather.
We make sure that the tanneries we work with are certified by the Leather Working Group LWG.
Leather is a natural product. It is very durable and keeps you warm. Leather has a high tensile strength, can stretch well at the same time, it is aging and temperature resistant.
Leather can be absorbed up to 30% without the product being "wet".
The leathers we use are so-called through-dyed, natural leathers. This means our leathers are dyed with soluble dyes and not treated with top color (just dyed through). This preserves the natural grain of the leather.
Of course, in the production of shoes and the selection of leather, care is taken to use leather for a pair of shoes that also looks the same, yet leather is a natural product and may have different grain pattern. In natural leathers are (especially in smooth leather) hairholes, the scarring and sometimes even residues of e.g. Insect bites recognizable.
For dyed-through leathers that are particularly colorful, they may discolour slightly in extreme wet conditions. Such a thing will never be prevented. However, we try to feed such leather mostly inside, so that the dyeing is not too strong.
A dermis always has two sides. One flesh side and one hair side, also called meat-remote upper side.
In addition to fine smooth leather, we use nubuck leather on some models. Nubuck is called fine rough leather, which was fine sanded on the top. This gives it an almost velvety-looking character. Mostly calf nubuck or bovine nubuck is used for this type of leather. In nubuck leather, the scarring remains largely intact.
Our leathers are mostly milled after the tanning. After tanning, leather is often a bit hard. Sometimes you need something harder leather z.b. if you want to make a perforation so a perforation of a leather. This one sees z.b. in the so-called Budapest shoes, which have a perforation in the toe area. Most of our shoes should however are cuddly and pleasantly soft.
The leather is then rolled after dressing for about 10-12 hours in barrels at high speed. This stretch and shrub movement makes the leather soft and supple. The individual tanner then has his very special secret, how he gets the smoothness of his leather a little better than the competition. E.g. added cork So should soften the leather a bit more.
Chrome tanning has been practiced since the 19th century. Chrome tanning has been explained in chemical literature as early as 1858.
We use chromium to tan our leather. This is common for around 80%-100% of leather used in the clothing, furniture and shoe industries. Our leather is tanned using chromium(III) salts. Chromium(III) salt is a natural, non-toxic element, that we also consume in food.
We don’t use harmful chromium(VI) in our tanning process. Chrome-free leather is often advertised as “without chromium and harmful substances”. This gives the impression that chrome tanning uses harmful products. But that isn’t the case. Tanning using chromium(III) is completely harmless. Many people associate “chrome” with toxicity or have heard about excessive levels of chromium(VI) in the media.
This fear has then been used in marketing to promote alternatives. The use of chromium(III) salts is completely harmless for your health.
The vast majority of people will experience no problems despite prolonged skin contact with shoes or clothing. Drinking water can contain 50 micrograms of chromium(III) per liter.
The advantages of chrome tanning are clear:
- Chrome tanned leather has double the tensile strength
- Chrome salts do not swell the skins, tannin makes up about 1.5%-4% of the weight of the leather (vegetable tanned leather has a tannin content of 20%)
- Chrome tanned leather is lighter
- Chrome tanned leather is easier to waterproof and can be dyed more effectively
- Chrome tanned leather conducts heat better, is more heat-resistant and is fades less
- The tanning process is faster and uses less material
The resulting leather after chrome tanning, so called ‘wet blue’, is transportable and storable, which allows international sales and further processing worldwide
Chrome tanned leather is very soft
We use leather with a TÜV certification. All leather/materials imported into Europe or produced in Europe have to meet European standards.
The tanneries where we source our leather are certified by the international organisation Leather Working Group.
Reference: Lederzentrum, Knapp, F.: Natur und Wesen der Gerberei und des Leders. In: Dinglers Polytechnisches Journal 149, 1858. 305; 378, Gmehlich Leder, Wikipedi